My Travel Map

My Travel Map

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

What to pack for the Amazon jungle

So far I had the opportunity to backpack on a shoestring through Europe, Asia, South America, North America and North Africa. After every trip I take mental notes about items I should include or take off my list. I'm an organization freak! So here are some packing tips for an amazon jungle trip. 

View over  deforested Coca
I've done jungle trips before. When it came time to pack for the Napo Wildlife Center I already knew what I was looking for. 
Any sense of fashion and style will go out of the window the second you step off the plane and begin to sweat abundantly. In this type of trips you want to feel comfortable and protected from sunburns and insects.

River otter
  • Long Sleeves
You'll need 2 long sleeve dry fit shirts in light colors (pastel tones are the best) but on a looser fitting. This is a very hot and humid place, you'll be always wet and sticky. Loose fitting clothing is comfier.
I noticed that all the guides were wearing Columbia long sleeve shirts. Those are baggy shirts made with a very light and breathable fabric. 

  • T'shirts 
I got some dry fit tanks but they weren't appropriate. My skin was too exposed. T'shirts are a better choice. Or at least tanks that cover your chest and shoulders. 

Nocturnal frog
  • Pants
In Costa Rica, I was wearing cotton leggings and they weren't cushy. The fabric wasn't breathable, it was wet all the time and I got lots of mosquitoes bites. This time, I bought some roomy ultra light pants. Unfortunately, I couldn't find these in a light color. But they worked fine.

  • Shoes
Sneakers are the safest option (some guests were wearing Keen hybrid shoes, they were ok too). The lodge will provide you with Wellington boots for the muddy treks (they were comfortable, I didn't need to use the shoe insoles recommended by some reviewers on Tripadvisor).

  • RainJacket
The lodge provides long ponchos. No need to pack one.

David, our eagle-eye, trying to spot wildlife while paddling
  • Basics
You'll also need clothing to wear around the lodge. I packed a couple of basics: cotton dress and shorts plus flipflops. Nothing fancy or trendy. Just comfy clothes.

  • Acessories
A wide brimmed hat like this one is mandatory. And sunglasses. 

Don't forget to bring a small backpack to carry the essentials for the daily activities. 

Binoculars make a big difference in these nature trips. Otherwise it is really hard to spot wildlife or fully enjoy it. We decided to buy a decent pair of 10x42mm waterproof and fogproof binoculars, still reasonably priced. They performed greatly. 

We packed a flashlight but it was useless. We ended up using the iPhone for that. Way better!


Birding
  • Toiletries 
The Sun is very strong in the Equator. Bring a good sunscreen with a high SPF.

I packed a Deet based insect repellent (I tried many natural alternatives but they weren't effective in jungle) but I barely used it during my stay. Napo is almost a mosquito - free zone (it's impressive, I only got a couple of tiny bites). 

Sulfate free shampoo and toothpaste should be in your list. I also bought an all-natural soap bar but rooms had a bio- degradable shower gel dispenser.

  • Compression bags
I read many complains about stinky clothes. That's why I bought some compression bags at Marshalls (I like the Swiss Gear ones). But I didn't need them for any other purpose other than saving space - they are very efficient for that. During our stay at Napo it didn't rain and there wasn't that earthy jungle smell.  

















Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Napo Wildlife Center: Lost in the Ecuadorian Amazon

Yasuni National Park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve located in the Amazonian rainforest region in Ecuador.
Anangu lake
While researching about Yasuni, we came across the Napo Wildlife Center (NWC). It's a community-based sustainable project managed by the Kichwa Anangu people and it's focused in preserving the fauna and flora. 
NWC is located in the shore of a beautiful lake, with access to the Napo river but sufficiently away that the busy waters don't affect the quiet way of life at NWC.
It's composed by just 12 cabins facing the lake. 

Early morning at Anangu lake 
We booked everything directly with the Napo staff (no credit card surcharge) but you can also book it through a travel agency. It can be cheaper if you are also booking a cruise to Galapagos or something else.

Cabins 
The whole package is very well organized. Napo's staff member was waiting for us at Quito airport with a smile, our boarding passes and a lunch box for later on.
It's a short flight to Coca, about 25 minutes. There we met the guides and we took a 2 hours ride in a motorized canoe. 
Along the Napo river we saw many oil drilling sites. And high speed boats that cause disruption and serve mainly the oil company workers.

Oil machinery being transported along the river
In 2007 Ecuadoran President, Correa, proposed that his government would refrain from oil exploitation in Yasuni in exchange of getting at least $350 million dollars annually in donations from the international community. The Ecuadoran government named the campaign, Yasuni - ITT Initiative.
Many environmental organizations, countries and also the University of Maryland have committed $100.000 to the initiative.  Turns out, Correa allegedly had been negotiating a $1 billion deal with a Chinese bank to drill for oil in the area when he launched the ITT Iniative.

Night trail 
A Quito based NGO conducted an on-the-ground inspection in a Quichua indigenous village in the Yasuni, along the Napo river and concluded that 5 families out of 20 had experienced poisoning due to dumped oil in the watercourse. All the members of those families became seriously ill.  
Recently, the Supreme Court of Canada, unanimously ruled in favor of the Ecuadoran indigenous people, allowing them to enforce a $9.5 billion verdict, against an oil company that deliberated dumped 18 billion gallons of waste water and 17 million gallons of crude, into the Ecuadorian Amazon back in 2001. 
It caused a massive health crisis and remains one of the worst oil-related environmental crimes in history.



David, the eagle eye, paddling
Oil exploitation affects local communities and the natural ecosystem. 
Projects like Napo empower local people and protect the rainforest.  Communities can preserve their traditions and make money with eco-tourism while they oppose destructive development and oil extraction. 
Kichwa Anangu community is engaged in sustainable practices in order to protect wildlife in their lands. For instances, they don't hunt monkeys anymore. And as a consequence, the number of monkeys increased in the last years.

Our canoe
After the motorized canoe we were divided by groups of 7 to 8 people - we were lucky, we teamed up with the Swift's, a merry family from Manchester - UK. And then we took a small paddle-canoe (no worries, no need to paddle) through the Napo river creeks that connects with the Anangu lake.
A few meters after we changed to the canoe, we saw a red titi monkey. The tour had just started. 

Golden Mantled Tamarind
Our crew, David (the eagle eye) and Pedro (naturalist guide) were simply perfect.
David spotted things that no one could see and Pedro was truly enthusiastic and passionate about showing us everything the jungle could offer. 

Poison dart frog
Typically you wake up early, at 5 or 5.30 am and embark on a journey to see countless animals. Just monkeys alone, we saw 6 different species.
We also did an interesting night walk around the lodge. David spotted several nocturnal creatures during a 30 minutes walk or so. 

Passion butterfly
Don't underestimate the observation tower that sits at the center of the lodge. We saw many animals there while having drinks with the Swift, before the sunset. Namely monkeys, a cayman and dozens of birds. 
Nocturnal frog sleeping
Wildlife is simply stunning at Napo. It's truly once in a lifetime experience. 

Kichwa Anangu ladies dancing