Napo Wildlife Center: Lost in the Ecuadorian Amazon

Yasuni National Park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve located in the Amazonian rainforest region in Ecuador.

Anangu lake

While researching about Yasuni, we came across the Napo Wildlife Center (NWC). It's a community-based sustainable project managed by the Kichwa Anangu people and it's focused in preserving the fauna and flora. 

NWC is located in the shore of a beautiful lake, with access to the Napo river but sufficiently away that the busy waters don't affect the quiet way of life at NWC.

It's composed by just 12 cabins facing the lake. 

Early morning at Anangu lake 

We booked everything directly with the Napo staff (no credit card surcharge) but you can also book it through a travel agency. It can be cheaper if you are also booking a cruise to Galapagos or something else.

Cabins 

The whole package is very well organized. Napo's staff member was waiting for us at Quito airport with a smile, our boarding passes and a lunch box for later on.

It's a short flight to Coca, about 25 minutes. There we met the guides and we took a 2 hours ride in a motorized canoe. 

Along the Napo river we saw many oil drilling sites. And high speed boats that cause disruption and serve mainly the oil company workers.

Oil machinery being transported along the river

In 2007 Ecuadoran President, Correa, proposed that his government would refrain from oil exploitation in Yasuni in exchange of getting at least $350 million dollars annually in donations from the international community. The Ecuadoran government named the campaign, Yasuni - ITT Initiative.

Many environmental organizations, countries and also the University of Maryland have committed $100.000 to the initiative.  Turns out, Correa allegedly had been negotiating a $1 billion deal with a Chinese bank to drill for oil in the area when he launched the ITT Iniative.

Night trail 

A Quito based NGO conducted an on-the-ground inspection in a Quichua indigenous village in the Yasuni, along the Napo river and concluded that 5 families out of 20 had experienced poisoning due to dumped oil in the watercourse. All the members of those families became seriously ill.  

Recently, the Supreme Court of Canada, unanimously ruled in favor of the Ecuadoran indigenous people, allowing them to enforce a $9.5 billion verdict, against an oil company that deliberated dumped 18 billion gallons of waste water and 17 million gallons of crude, into the Ecuadorian Amazon back in 2001. 

It caused a massive health crisis and remains one of the worst oil-related environmental crimes in history.

David, the eagle eye, paddling

Oil exploitation affects local communities and the natural ecosystem. 

Projects like Napo empower local people and protect the rainforest.  Communities can preserve their traditions and make money with eco-tourism while they oppose destructive development and oil extraction. 

Kichwa Anangu community is engaged in sustainable practices in order to protect wildlife in their lands. For instances, they don't hunt monkeys anymore. And as a consequence, the number of monkeys increased in the last years.

Our canoe

After the motorized canoe we were divided by groups of 7 to 8 people - we were lucky, we teamed up with the Swift's, a merry family from Manchester - UK. And then we took a small paddle-canoe (no worries, no need to paddle) through the Napo river creeks that connects with the Anangu lake.

A few meters after we changed to the canoe, we saw a red titi monkey. The tour had just started. 

Golden Mantled Tamarind

Our crew, David (the eagle eye) and Pedro (naturalist guide) were simply perfect.

David spotted things that no one could see and Pedro was truly enthusiastic and passionate about showing us everything the jungle could offer. 

Poison dart frog

Typically you wake up early, at 5 or 5.30 am and embark on a journey to see countless animals. Just monkeys alone, we saw 6 different species.

We also did an interesting night walk around the lodge. David spotted several nocturnal creatures during a 30 minutes walk or so. 

Passion butterfly

Don't underestimate the observation tower that sits at the center of the lodge. We saw many animals there while having drinks with the Swift, before the sunset. Namely monkeys, a cayman and dozens of birds. 

Nocturnal frog sleeping

Wildlife is simply stunning at Napo. It's truly once in a lifetime experience. 

Kichwa Anangu ladies dancing