My Travel Map

My Travel Map

Thursday, April 16, 2015

48h in Luang Prabang, Lao

While backpacking in Thailand we wanted to go to Luang Prabang, Lao for a couple of days. 
The visa at arrival was pricey for such a short trip. And it took a bit of time. We had to fill out several immigration forms and submit some passport pictures (we made a bunch of copies of those in the USA).

Luang Prabang Airport
We stayed in a brand new hotel called Villa LaodeumNam Khan River. Simple but lovely, facing the Mekong River and just one block away from the main attractions.

Mekong River
Old French Quarter
There are hundreds of temples and monasteries across Luang Prabang.
The Wat Xieng Thong is one of the most visited. The building has carved scenes from Buddha's life and the ceilings symbolize the Buddhist law and the circle of reincarnation. It's spectacular.
This wat is located in the Old French Quarter, a posh area with some colonial architecture and lots of character.

Wat
Wat
The Royal palace's architecture is very detailed and pretty. It's a mix of Lao and French styles. The walls are all covered by murals depicting scenes from traditional Lao lifestyle.
There is a vast collection of art, including a Buddha that supposedly was made around the 1st century in Sri Lanka.
The Royal family's bedrooms have been preserved as they were in 1975.
Make sure that you are bringing long pants or skirt and long sleeves shirt. The dress code is very strict.

Royal Palace
Royal Palace
The night market is a magical place. It stopped in time, very colorful and quite authentic. There you can find beautiful local handicrafts.
It opens daily from 5 to 10 PM.

Night Market
The day market is for locals. It's mostly a food market. Very likely you will be the only tourist around. It's a good way to experience the real Lao. And learn more about their cuisine and culture. 

Day Market
The mount Phu Si offers great views over the Mekong River and the dense forest around. The best time to go is at sunset. 
It's a steep climb but the views largely justify the strain. 
During the stroll we met some young and very friendly monks.

Mount Phu Si
Since Luang Prabang is a very touristic place, restaurants are pricey and some are for western palates. Our fave spot there was the Tamarind. It serves delicious Lao food and drinks. Try the Lao sausage.

Road Trip Canada

Our first road trip outside Europe, was in Canada. We rented a car in Chicago and we drove all the way through Quebec City. Well, Rui drove. I was the one enjoying the views and trying to spot Starbucks along the way. It's a dirty job but someone has to do it.
The highlight in this trip was Niagara Falls.

Niagara Falls
The nicest thing about Niagara is obviously the falls. The city itself is awful. It's a tourist trap. There is nothing interesting about it. Unless you are a fan of Ripley's museum and you are crazy about dollar shops. 
Go early, take a boat tour and leave ASAP.
The ticket includes a poncho that is very useful.

Niagara Falls
After visiting the falls, we drove around some small cities. They were charming. And in each one there was a war reenactment going on. After the 2nd one I got bored. Apart from that, there was nothing exciting to see or do.  


Montreal's skyline
Montreal's street art
Montreal is a cool and modern city. 
Downtown has a few things to see, namely a chunk of the Berlin wall. And there are a bunch of outdoor activities during the summer. We went to a flee market in a crowded park where locals were sunbathing and picnicking. But it hardly justifies a flight or a long drive. 

Poutine
We found Quebec City a cute city with old cobbled stoned and narrow streets, walled fortifications and centuries - old buildings.
The chateau Frontenac is gorgeous. It sits above the village and has great views of St. Lawrence river.
But in some areas it feels like being in Disney World. There are many shops selling silly "wanna be" medieval souvenirs.
We tried Quebec's signature food, poutine. A messy pile of fries, gravy and cheese curds... Not my fave dish for sure. 

View from the parliament 
I've been in Ottawa twice so far. It's one of those places that you can easily skip. The parliament is the main attraction. And there are a couple of interesting museums, the National Gallery of Canada and the Museum of History. 

Toronto
Toronto has some architectural resemblances with Chicago. And the hipster vibe recalls me Portland.
It's home of one of my fave museums, the Royal Ontario Museum. It hosts an impressive collection of Native American very detailed and tall totems.

One Thousand Islands
Overall I wasn't impressed with this part of Canada. I guess the best thing about it is the nature. The cities aren't outstanding if you are visiting from the US like me.  If you are interested in exploring large cities, you can get much better in Chicago or NYC. Or even in DC. There is nothing spectacular about Toronto, Montreal or Ottawa. 


Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Ha Long Bay: The Descending Dragon Bay

During our backpacking trip in Vietnam we went to Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
It 's a spectacular and unique seascape of limestone pillars. Legend says that the islands along this bay were formed by a dragon that spat jewels across the water.
It's located 165 kms away from Hanoi (transportation provided by the boat tour operator).

On board

This trip involved detailed research.
There are thousands of boat tours operating in this area. And we read many stories of disappointment due to poorly maintained boats, terrible food and crappy daily programs. So we decided to book a tour with one of the top operators at that time, Treasure Junk. Instead of staying a couple of nights, we stayed just one to make it more affordable. 

Our boat, Treasure Junk
Our cabin at Treasure Junk
Our cabin at Treasure Junk
We don't regret our decision. Sometimes less equals more.
Our boat was great. And that simple fact made our stay even more pleasant. 
We got a cozy and comfy cabin with all the amenities.

Limestone rocks
Enjoying the views
The staff was very polite and they did their best to keep us busy.
The program was very entertaining. We didn't feel bored anytime during our trip.
We kayaked along the bay towards a small beach with no access by land. Unfortunately it was filled with garbage. The increasing number of boats in this area and pollution in the areas around is creating a serious environmental issue. Rivers and lakes are bringing garbage from all over to the bay.

Kayaking in Ha Long Bay
Garbage all over
We also had a Vietnamese cooking class. The chef tried to teach us how to sculpt carrots and tomatoes. It was more fun than educative. We had such a good time. 
Meals were served in a covered area, in small tables giving guests some privacy, in a relaxed atmosphere.
Food was delicious and abundant.
At late afternoon everyone went to the deck to enjoy the views, chat with the other passengers and have a couple of drinks.

Pearl Farm Village with tourists from other boat tours
On our last day they took us to a tour along the Pearl farm village. It's where all the tours end up. It feels more like a touristic attraction than an authentic village.
I bet tourist tours are the main source of income. 
The boat rowers were all female. While they are rowing they also catch garbage with a small net.
They took us for a long ride along the village. The surroundings are stunning. 
In the end they took us to the shop where they showed us the oyster cultures and how they extract the pearls. 

Pearl Farm Village
Pearl Farm Village
Pearl Farm Village