My Travel Map

My Travel Map

Monday, March 16, 2015

Angkor Wat: Back in Time

Angkor Wat is one of the most spectacular places that I visited so far.
It's much much bigger and impressive than I thought. And it's also very well preserved.
Recently I found out that one of the very first western visitors was a Portuguese Capuchin friar, Antonio da Madalena. He visited the site in 1586.

Ride to Angkor Wat
Ride from Gloria Hotel to Angkor Wat
We stayed in Siem Reap in a hotel called Gloria Angkor. At that time it was #1 on Tripadvisor. And we really enjoyed our stay.
There were at least two transportation options from Siem Reap to Angkor Wat: bicycle or rickshaw. The bicycle was inexpensive but I don't bike and even if I did, it would take a long time and effort. So we booked a rickshaw with our hotel. They charged us less than $20 per day and it also included fresh beverages (water, sodas and beer). 
Our driver was polite and very professional.

Temple
Angkor Wat
They only have tickets for one day ($20), three days ($40) or one week ($60).
We only had two days to visit it but we had to buy a three days ticket. We bought it in the main ticket office in the site.
No need to bring a picture anymore, they'll take one while you are buying the tickets and they'll print it automatically on the ticket.
Keep your ticket with you while visiting, there are many checkpoints and very often officials are checking it.

Temple
Monk touching the statues
Our plan was going in the early morning, have lunch there, visit for a little bit more and return to the hotel after 1 PM. During peak hours it gets very hot.
We also went to the most remote areas in the early morning and left the closest to visit later. We adjusted our routine every time we saw a tour bus. But even then it was hard to avoid crowds. 

Temple
Temple
In the central structure they enforce the dress code rules. 
I couldn't visit some of the ruins in this area because I was wearing shorts and tops. The dress code is very restrictive for women, we have to wear long skirts or pants and long sleeves. Women can't use scarfs to cover legs or shoulders. It's very specific and annoying. And it's unpractical due to the hot temperatures. 
Men just have to cover their shoulders. 

Temple
View
My fave temple was the Bayon. It's very unique and it's the most spectacular temple, 216 gigantic and similar faces with an enigmatic smile - it's known as the Mona Lisa of Southeast Asia. 
It's strategically located in the middle of the walled city. Supposedly represents the intersection of heaven and earth. 
It's very detailed, it has more than 11.000 carved figures.
This is one of the most popular spots, it's always crowded.

Bayon
Ruins
We came across several small children in the temples selling postcards or just begging for money. Lonely Planet advises tourists to not give money to these kids otherwise tourists keep them away from school. These kids are a source of income for their families and because of that they are not getting an education. And they won't be able to break the cycle of poverty.
I asked those kids many times why they weren't at school. All of them told me they were going to school afterwards. Our driver confirmed what we already knew, they are not going to school.
If you want to help in a sustainable way, there are many great restaurants in Siemp Reap that are providing education to poor kids and teaching them a valuable skill, as Sala Bai (lunch) or Heaven (dinner). Reservations in advance are highly recommended.
Avoid Siem Reap, it's a tourist trap.
Sala Bai, lunch menu $10 pp (tiramisu, papaya salad and beef fillet) 

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