My Travel Map

My Travel Map

Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Murphy's Law and Ciudad Perdida

Lonely Planet South America on a Shoestring 2010 edition tells about a beautiful, quiet and small fishermen village called Taganga, in Colombia. 
Based on the awesome description we decided to give it a try. 
Taganga is the least interesting and impressive place on earth. Nature was gone many years ago along with fishermen and clean beaches. Natives were more focused in partying all night long and not allowing me to have my beauty sleep.

The driver smiling to the cam

We weren't aware of Murphy's law... Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong. So we decided to take a 4 to 5 days tour to Ciudad Perdida (Lost City).
Sierra Nevada is gorgeous but the treks in the jungle were so physically intensive due the muddy paths, inclination and the daily rain that it was almost impossible to take a look around. I was so focused on the trail, where to step or how to cross safely rivers that I missed the most important thing, enjoying nature.

Luxury accommodation 
5 Star Facilities
In the morning we would walk for several hours, take short breaks and arrive to a new camp around 2 pm. Then have lunch and spend the rest of the day watching the heavy rains that would last till night. Nothing to do, just sleep or lay down on the improvised dorms outdoors. 
At this point we weren't fully aware of the laws of infernal dynamics and their adage about the cursedness of the universe yet.

Arhuacos natives
After 2 days I noticed that the water that our guides were giving us had a weird color and smell. I brought up that issue several times but they told me that I was being picky in a macho tone that really hurt my very feminist side. Turns out, the picky lady was right. They weren't purifying the water properly and... Yes, exactly! You totally got it! I got sick. Let's say that the jungle is not the best place to get sick.

Our friend Isaias, he came with us all way back and then he returned
We were in a camp less than 1 km away from the Lost City that it took us 2 days to arrive there, when we had to return. We did all the way back in 1 day. We walked for almost 10 hours with no food or water. If you want to get the picture, set your treadmill in the gym at inclination 12 and imagine mud everywhere... Then try to walk like that for hours.

The famous mula
Because I was sick and very slow after a few hours they got a mula (a small horse) to carry me around. The mula jumped incredible high and it scared me. I was afraid of fall and get hurt.
FYI, supposedly just one guy did all the way down in 1 day. Rui is the 2nd along with our guide. And me and the mula are the 3rd (the mula cannot complain much, because I'm very light). But I bet that the other guy had water and he was not sick. So maybe we deserve to be the #1.


I do not recommend the Lost City unless you like to do treks in the jungle in very harsh conditions, carrying a backpack all the time. You are part of a group, so you have to keep pace.
Your clothes, shoes and hair will be wet all the time. They'll be wet no matter what (even Nike dry fit got incredible wet). Food is not good or enough. You have to eat whatever they cook, if you have food restrictions you'll not eat at all. There is no alternative menu.
If you get sick you have to find your way back. There is no roads. And helicopters can't land in the middle of the jungle. 
If you think that this is a stroll in the park, think again.

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