Tortuguero by Public Transportation: Don't Rely on Hippies

From Orosi, we took another 3 buses until we could reach Rio Blanco (we connected twice, once in San Jose, in a different bus terminal). Thankfully we met a local that was doing the same route from Orosi and he guided us through the confusing "bus system". He told us that he does this route every month to visit his daughter and it takes him almost 1 day each way to make less than 100 kms.
This is what I enjoy most about public transportation, we meet people and we share stories (credits to Rui, he is much better on that than me).

At this point I consider myself an expert in chicken buses

I don't even know how to start this blog entry...
In Rio Blanco we stayed in a lodge owned by a nice but too relaxed dutch hippie guy. Unfortunately we asked him suggestions about activities in that area and he convinced us that we should go to Tortuguero. And get a off-the-beaten-track canoe tour with his friend Castor.
We weren't sure about it because we read that Tortuguero is very inaccessible. It's not reachable by road, there are only 3 boats per day. And the road to the dock is unpaved and a bit dangerous. Several armed robberies occurred there recently. Cars, tourist and public buses were the target (even boats).
But the hippie was very persistent about it and he seemed knowledgeable.  He arranged everything.
At that time I ignored an important mantra that my mum used to tell me: "don't rely on hippies".

Crowded bus to La Pavona

In the next morning we left the lodge at 6.30 am in a cab to the Guapiles bus terminal. There we got a bus to Cariari. From there we took another bus to La Pavona at 9 am.
There are only 3 buses per day to La Pavona. And they are all coordinated with the public boat schedule from La Pavona to Tortuguero Village.

Public boat at Tortuguero Village

Canal's landscape

Supposedly in La Pavona, Victor a friend of Castor's, would be waiting for us to take us to the park in a fast boat.
Victor was nowhere to be found. After a long search that involved locals (thankfully we speak Spanish), we were able to locate him far away from the dock, chatting with friends. He was not aware of the arrangement and he was not willing to take us. Making a long story short, we ended up taking the public boat.

Canal's landscape

Canal's landscape

When we arrived to Tortuguero's village, Castor told us that the park had closed for lunch (according to him this park closes 3 times per day but the official schedule doesn't refer it, we aren't sure if this is a scam to keep tourists in the village's businesses) and it was impossible to visit it. Later he admitted that it's impossible to visit it in a single day.
BTW, Castor looked under the influence of something. Later the dutch hippie confirmed that Castor has a drinking problem... I have to admit: this was definitely off-the-beaten-track. We went there, we had to deal with a bunch of issues including a guy under the influence of alcohol and we didn't visit the park. It was very unique. These guys know how to make things unforgettable.

Public boat departing from La Pavona

Canal's landscape

Since the last boat to La Pavona was at 3pm we only had time to have lunch and go back to take the last bus to Cariari at 4pm.
On our way back, another bus that was taking a large group of banana farm workers left them on the side of the road due to a mechanical issue. Our bus driver invited all of them to get a ride with us for free. The banana workers were very excited for sharing the bus with these 2 tourists (me and Rui).
It was the kindest gesture that I saw in this awful day that I spent in public buses and boats, with no sightseeing.

Road from La Pavona to Cariari

Road from La Pavona to Cariari

What you should take from our experience to make yours better:

1- This one goes without saying. At this point you guys already got it, don't rely on hippies. Keep that mantra alive. Do your own research and don't trust as much as we did. 

2- It's impossible to visit Tortuguero in 1 day by public transportation. Even by car it can be challenging unless you can be there before 7am.
2- My advise is to go and spend at least 1 night in Tortuguero to visit it properly. And you should book in advance. Tortuguero became very popular these days. We came across hundreds of tourists.
3- If you are visiting it as a part of a large tour that is going there for a couple of hours, you'll see as much as we saw. Maybe a little bit more but not that much. Motor and large boats are not allowed in the small canals where you have more chances of spotting wildlife.
We saw several boats speeding in the main areas with no respect for the other boats or wildlife.
The village is crappy. There is nothing to see or do. I mean, you can have fresh coconut water for $1 but that's it.