What to pack for the Amazon jungle

So far I had the opportunity to backpack on a shoestring through Europe, Asia, South America, North America and North Africa. After every trip I take mental notes about items I should include or take off my list. I'm an organization freak! So here are some packing tips for an amazon jungle trip. 

View over  deforested Coca

I've done jungle trips before. When it came time to pack for the Napo Wildlife Center I already knew what I was looking for. 

Any sense of fashion and style will go out of the window the second you step off the plane and begin to sweat abundantly. In this type of trips you want to feel comfortable and protected from sunburns and insects.

River otter

• Long Sleeves

You'll need 2 long sleeve dry fit shirts in light colors (pastel tones are the best) but on a looser fitting. This is a very hot and humid place, you'll be always wet and sticky. Loose fitting clothing is comfier.

I noticed that all the guides were wearing Columbia long sleeve shirts. Those are baggy shirts made with a very light and breathable fabric. 

• T'shirts 

I got some dry fit tanks but they weren't appropriate. My skin was too exposed. T'shirts are a better choice. Or at least tanks that cover your chest and shoulders. 

Nocturnal frog

• Pants

In Costa Rica, I was wearing cotton leggings and they weren't cushy. The fabric wasn't breathable, it was wet all the time and I got lots of mosquitoes bites. This time, I bought some roomy ultra light pants. Unfortunately, I couldn't find these in a light color. But they worked fine.

• Shoes

Sneakers are the safest option (some guests were wearing Keen hybrid shoes, they were ok too). The lodge will provide you with Wellington boots for the muddy treks (they were comfortable, I didn't need to use the shoe insoles recommended by some reviewers on Tripadvisor).

• RainJacket

The lodge provides long ponchos. No need to pack one.

David, our eagle-eye, trying to spot wildlife while paddling

• Basics

You'll also need clothing to wear around the lodge. I packed a couple of basics: cotton dress and shorts plus flipflops. Nothing fancy or trendy. Just comfy clothes.

• Acessories

A wide brimmed hat like this one is mandatory. And sunglasses. 

Don't forget to bring a small backpack to carry the essentials for the daily activities. 

Binoculars make a big difference in these nature trips. Otherwise it is really hard to spot wildlife or fully enjoy it. We decided to buy a decent pair of 10x42mm waterproof and fogproof binoculars, still reasonably priced. They performed greatly. 

We packed a flashlight but it was useless. We ended up using the iPhone for that. Way better!

Birding

• Toiletries 

The Sun is very strong in the Equator. Bring a good sunscreen with a high SPF.

I packed a Deet based insect repellent (I tried many natural alternatives but they weren't effective in jungle) but I barely used it during my stay. Napo is almost a mosquito - free zone (it's impressive, I only got a couple of tiny bites). 

Sulfate free shampoo and toothpaste should be in your list. I also bought an all-natural soap bar but rooms had a bio- degradable shower gel dispenser.

• Compression bags

I read many complains about stinky clothes. That's why I bought some compression bags at Marshalls (I like the Swiss Gear ones). But I didn't need them for any other purpose other than saving space - they are very efficient for that. During our stay at Napo it didn't rain and there wasn't that earthy jungle smell.  

Napo Wildlife Center: Lost in the Ecuadorian Amazon

Yasuni National Park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve located in the Amazonian rainforest region in Ecuador.

Anangu lake

While researching about Yasuni, we came across the Napo Wildlife Center (NWC). It's a community-based sustainable project managed by the Kichwa Anangu people and it's focused in preserving the fauna and flora. 

NWC is located in the shore of a beautiful lake, with access to the Napo river but sufficiently away that the busy waters don't affect the quiet way of life at NWC.

It's composed by just 12 cabins facing the lake. 

Early morning at Anangu lake 

We booked everything directly with the Napo staff (no credit card surcharge) but you can also book it through a travel agency. It can be cheaper if you are also booking a cruise to Galapagos or something else.

Cabins 

The whole package is very well organized. Napo's staff member was waiting for us at Quito airport with a smile, our boarding passes and a lunch box for later on.

It's a short flight to Coca, about 25 minutes. There we met the guides and we took a 2 hours ride in a motorized canoe. 

Along the Napo river we saw many oil drilling sites. And high speed boats that cause disruption and serve mainly the oil company workers.

Oil machinery being transported along the river

In 2007 Ecuadoran President, Correa, proposed that his government would refrain from oil exploitation in Yasuni in exchange of getting at least $350 million dollars annually in donations from the international community. The Ecuadoran government named the campaign, Yasuni - ITT Initiative.

Many environmental organizations, countries and also the University of Maryland have committed $100.000 to the initiative.  Turns out, Correa allegedly had been negotiating a $1 billion deal with a Chinese bank to drill for oil in the area when he launched the ITT Iniative.

Night trail 

A Quito based NGO conducted an on-the-ground inspection in a Quichua indigenous village in the Yasuni, along the Napo river and concluded that 5 families out of 20 had experienced poisoning due to dumped oil in the watercourse. All the members of those families became seriously ill.  

Recently, the Supreme Court of Canada, unanimously ruled in favor of the Ecuadoran indigenous people, allowing them to enforce a $9.5 billion verdict, against an oil company that deliberated dumped 18 billion gallons of waste water and 17 million gallons of crude, into the Ecuadorian Amazon back in 2001. 

It caused a massive health crisis and remains one of the worst oil-related environmental crimes in history.

David, the eagle eye, paddling

Oil exploitation affects local communities and the natural ecosystem. 

Projects like Napo empower local people and protect the rainforest.  Communities can preserve their traditions and make money with eco-tourism while they oppose destructive development and oil extraction. 

Kichwa Anangu community is engaged in sustainable practices in order to protect wildlife in their lands. For instances, they don't hunt monkeys anymore. And as a consequence, the number of monkeys increased in the last years.

Our canoe

After the motorized canoe we were divided by groups of 7 to 8 people - we were lucky, we teamed up with the Swift's, a merry family from Manchester - UK. And then we took a small paddle-canoe (no worries, no need to paddle) through the Napo river creeks that connects with the Anangu lake.

A few meters after we changed to the canoe, we saw a red titi monkey. The tour had just started. 

Golden Mantled Tamarind

Our crew, David (the eagle eye) and Pedro (naturalist guide) were simply perfect.

David spotted things that no one could see and Pedro was truly enthusiastic and passionate about showing us everything the jungle could offer. 

Poison dart frog

Typically you wake up early, at 5 or 5.30 am and embark on a journey to see countless animals. Just monkeys alone, we saw 6 different species.

We also did an interesting night walk around the lodge. David spotted several nocturnal creatures during a 30 minutes walk or so. 

Passion butterfly

Don't underestimate the observation tower that sits at the center of the lodge. We saw many animals there while having drinks with the Swift, before the sunset. Namely monkeys, a cayman and dozens of birds. 

Nocturnal frog sleeping

Wildlife is simply stunning at Napo. It's truly once in a lifetime experience. 

Kichwa Anangu ladies dancing

Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wildness

The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wildness (BWCAW) is an unique place located in the northern third of the Superior National Forest in northeastern Minnesota. 

There are more than 1200 miles of canoe routes. And several thousand lakes, dispersed with islands and surrounded by forest.

Canoeing at 6.30 a.m.

It's certainly one of the most beautiful natural places that I ever visited in the U.S. 

The restriction on motor boats make it peaceful and magical. You can canoe for hours, enjoy the wildlife and scenery without any interference. And take a rest in the rocky shores. 

South Farm Lake

Boat deck at Blue Heron

We stayed in a premium location. Our hotel, Blue Heron Bed and Breakfast, was just a few feet away from the BWCAW area. Canoes and kayaks are available at any time. We took advantage of that and we went for early morning canoeing trips. We saw several blue herons, a bald eagle and its nest. Also dozens of gorgeous water lilies  and big fish.

South Farm Lake

Banana and red fruits French Toast 

Dawn and Mark are great hosts. They prepare hearty and delicious breakfasts, served on a communal table where the guests can meet each other and share experiences. The breakfast room overlooks the bird feeding stations, squirrels are also invited.
You should pack a good pair of binoculars (it makes a huge difference), camera, hat, sunscreen, repellent, reusable bottle of water and snacks.

BWCAW is being threatened by a mining project, Twin Metals. You can learn more about this here. Please sign the petition and spread the word #SaveTheBWCA

Red Fruits Pancakes

Squirrel eating black sunflower seeds

Rose's Luxury is Over-hyped

Rose's Luxury was on our list for a while. A few weeks ago, we decided to be brave and stand in line for more than 1h on a sunny Saturday. 

Helena's take: I don't get the hype. 

Desserts are good. Small plates are promising but disappointing in the end. Inconsistency is a big flaw in such a small menu. The food was not mind-blowing. 

Compared with similar places in NYC or Chicago, RL is a 3 stars. The hype and line killed the experience. 

Tips:

- If you are willing to eat right when it opens, you might get away without waiting much since most people in line put their names down for the 2nd rotation around 7 pm. 

- Save some room to dessert. 

- Go in small groups. 

- You should go once for the experience.

Can't miss:

- English pea cake with edible flowers. Very creative and yummy.

Good:

- Vietnamese pate. 

- Pork & Lychee salad.

- Coconut milk ice-cream

Meh:

- Grilled avocado topped with (tons of) cotija cheese. Unbalanced flavors. 

- Grilled pork blade steak. Teriyaki sauce was  terrible. 

- Charred asparagus with pineapple. Not good.

Cons:

- Insane line. 

Menu

Outdoor seating

Line at 4.50 pm

Complimentary bread and butter

Vietnamese pate

Grilled avocado

Pork and Lychee salad

Grilled blade steak

Asparagus salad

Complimentary pistachio ice cream

Dessert menu

Coconut ice cream

Pea cake

Getaway in Vermont and Upstate NY

I fell in love with Vermont a few years ago when I visited Burlington. The raw natural beauty impressed me. 

In fact, New England is one of my fave areas for summer getaways in the U.S (I wouldn't dare going there during the winter). It's very convenient, it's a short flight from where I live and drive is always pretty scenic.

Antiques everywhere

Generally speaking, food and accommodations are terrible. I rated a couple of hotels in a row with 1 or 2 stars . And I had a hard time trying to figure out what to write about the restaurants. This area is about nature, if you want to have good food, go to Chicago - this is my new mantra. Keep that in mind.

Hike in the Haystack Mountain Trail

The Haystack Mountain trail is one of the highlights. Unfortunately this park is not under the U.S. National Park system. Along the road that leads to this trail we saw several houses and recreation facilities for the residents.

The trail is not very well marked and distances are not accurate either. 

In total it took us more than 3h. But the views over the lake and mountains are worth it. 

Dozens of classic cars around

If you are not a nature lover, you should skip this post. New England is all about that. When the sun goes down, there is nothing left to do. Unless you are really into sport bars in small villages. I mean, you can have drinks and watch sports but that doesn't seem like a great plan to me. 

Henry Bridge

Vermont has the highest number of covered bridges and most of them were built using the traditional truss construction methods. Henry bridge is the nicest one. It's legit, well preserved and it's located on the perfect setting, over the Walloomsac River.  I wish weather had been warmer at daybreak, so we could have done some kayaking. 

Blue Benn Diner

Raspberry chocolate chip pancakes at Blue Benn Diner

We found an American diner trailer (directly from the 60's) to have early breakfast, Blue Benn Diner. While the counter is a classic, music lovers might want to pick a jukebox-outfitted booth. Food is prepared on the good old fashioned greasy spoon fare (don't order eggs unless your cholesterol is in healthy levels).  

We had delicious made-to-order raspberry chocolate chip pancakes while Johhny Cash [I Walk The Line] was playing. 

Pit-stop at Tom Hannock Reservoir

The ambitious weekend road trip move on to Saratoga National Historic Park where we learned a bit more about the brave people that defeated the powerful army (God bless this amazing country) and enjoyed the wildlife. While walking around, we spotted 3 deer very close by from where we were standing. 

Saratoga National Historic Park

Albany, the capital of NY State, was our final destination. It's a charming city, in one hand old small scale brick houses and in the other, futuristic construction like the Egg. After a little while you get used to the architectural variation. 

Ribs at Capital Q Smokhouse

Before we drove back to Connecticut, to get our flight back home, we had lunch in a BBQ place in a residential neighborhood (it seemed a bit rough, beware if you are planning to walk there), Capital Q Smokhouse. 

Rui is a BBQ expert, I'm sure that he would say that we already had better, but it was pretty decent. And the sides were very tasty. Decor is a must. 

Squirrel posing in exchange for some pistachios 

The drive back was through small villages in beautiful natural scenery routes with few cars enjoying the countryside. It was a great way to finish out trip.

Road trip in Maine and New Hampshire

Echo Lake State Park, NH

For the Memorial Day weekend, I planned a road trip in New England with my fave Italian couple. We met in Boston and we drove all the way to Portland, ME. It's a short drive. Just 2 to 3 hours away.

Oyster bar at Eventide Oyster Co.

I heard really good things about Portland. From nice brick sidewalks and cobblestone streets with elegant mansions to ocean views, it's a charming city.

Food scene is surprisingly good. There are several James Beard Award winners and nominees based in this small city of 65.000. I highly recommend the Eventide Oyster Co. 

Local oysters at Eventide Oyster Co.

Lobster roll at Eventide Oyster Co.

We booked a Kayak tour in the Ocean, in Casco Bay, with the Portland Paddle. Unfortunately it was very windy and that didn't allow us to explore as much as we wanted to.

Guides were very knowledgeable, patient and passionate.

Kayaking in Casco Bay, Portland

In New Hampshire (one of the few States that I was missing), we did a quick detour to check Echo Lake. It is worth it. We went there after 7 PM and we could enjoy a lovely sunset.
We also explored White Mountain National Forest. We hiked for 3 hours in Mt. Hedgehog (via the UNH) trail. It's mostly steep and rocky (moderately difficult) but the views are beautiful. 

Mt Hedgehog trail, White Mountain National Forest

When my friend Ceci told me about the cog railway, I got super excited. It seemed so cool. But now, after I experienced it, I can hardly justify the pricey ticket ($70). Trains are packed with large tours and in order to get the best seat, you have to get in line asap which can be very stressful. 

Line to board the Cog Train

On our way up we got the best seats (first seat for 3 on the left), but coming back we weren't so lucky. And we couldn't enjoy the views. Both guides were nice but they didn't make my experience remarkable. 

Views going up

Keep in mind that you can drive to the Mt. Washington Summit and have the same experience for free. The cafeteria has great views over the mountains, you can take great pics. As the one above.

View over the mountains and cog train

For nearly 62 years Mt Washington held the world record for the fastest wind gust ever recorded on the face of the Earth, 231 miles per hour.
Make sure that you are packing a fleece coat and a beanie.

Tim-Bir Alley

Finding a place to have dinner after 8 PM in this small cities is already hard, but with no phone reception is a big challenge. Thankfully, around Franconia, we came across 2 great places.

At Tim-Bir Alley we had a delicious dinner (cash only). And at Polly's Pancake Parlor I had the best pancakes ever. Both are family owned business for generations.