Trip of a lifetime: Galapagos

Galapagos is a trip of a lifetime. It's one of the few places in the world that I would visit again. And I am the one that hates boat trips. Besides aquaphobia, I am very prone to seasickness.
This trip required plenty of research. First we had to decide between day trips or a cruise trip.
The day trips at first seemed the best option because they are cheaper. But in fact there are several cons, like the long hours to reach the islands, the better islands to spot wildlife are further away and you'll arrive there very late in the morning.  Plus the day trip boats are small to navigate in rocky open seas.

Galapagos Legend

It took us weeks to analyze and select the best cruises. The U.S. embassy in Ecuador has a list of the boats involved in accidents and non-reliable operators. 

There are two options, small or big boat cruises. Both have positive and negatives aspects. Four important factors for us were route, knowledgeable guides, price and boat stability. 

Sea lions

The big boats tend to be cheaper and more stable in open seas.
We ended up booking a 5 days trip in a standard cabin in the Galapagoss Legend through an Ecuadoran travel agency.
You have to reserve well in advance, at least 6 months. At the time we were said and done, there was just one standard cabin left.

Blue-footed booby

One of the cons pointed out about big boats in several travel forums is the large amount of people embarking, disembarking and visiting the island at same time. I didn't find it so bad. We were divided by groups of 10 or less people. Each group had a different guide assigned. In the islands the guides would find alternative paths to avoid the other groups. We were lucky though, since our boat who can hold up to 90 people only had little over 40 passengers.

Penguin

We visited all the Galapagos's highlights, Sullivan Bay, Black Turtle Cove, Rabida, Urbina Bay, Tagus Cove, Espinosa Point and Vicente Roca. All the islands are different and they are all amazing.
We had the chance to see countless animals as the blue-footed boobies and snorkeling with pinguins and sea lions.

Rabida Island

A typical day trip includes a shore trip after breakfast, snorkeling after lunch and another trip to shore in the afternoon. For the ones that don't want to do snorkeling, there are other activities on board, as watching documentaries. There are also some lectures in the middle, not very interesting though.

There are lots of room to improvement concerning the guides. Although they are among the best professionals in Galapagos, they didn't seem very committed.
Food was surprisingly good and the cabins were nice and comfortable. We got upgraded to a cabin with large windows are more space which was really cool.

Baby sea lion sleeping next to their mother

Essentials: Light clothes, sneakers, hat, sunscreen and medicine for seasickness. I got motion sickness patches, they were very effective but when I finally took it off, I got dizzy and my vision was blurry. It took me a while to recover. 

Ecuador Highlands, Part I: The mythic cheese factory in the mountains

When we arrived in Ecuador we found out Cotopaxi volcano was erupting. So we had to make last minute changes to our plans. Instead of staying at Cotopaxi we headed to Chugchilan.

This was an arduous journey. In Quito we took a bus to Latacunga And then we took another bus to Sigchos. There, we took a pick up cab to Chugchilan.  The road is still under construction and it took us a while to reach our destination.

Quichua lady 

We got a simple but spotless room in a family owned hostel.  We tried to book it in advance, by e-mail, but the hotel was unresponsive. Later on we got why, this is a very isolated area and the Internet signal is almost non-existent around here. Until the very recently completion of a paved road from Chugchilan to Quilotoa, this was one of the most remote areas in Ecuador. And it’s certainly one of the most impoverished places as well.

El Vaquero Hostal 

Breakfast and dinner are included in the $25 rate  – what a steal. Food is homemade, made from scratch and they use local products. Everything tastes fresh and good.

Llappingachos

The drawback is the cold temperature At night and in the early morning it gets freezing. Rooms don’t have heating.

 10,500 ft Altitude

At first I wasn’t very excited about the Highlands. The freezing temperatures and altitude sickness (altitude 3,200 mt or 10,500 ft) were a big no-no. I am familiar with altitude sickness, I got sick before in Peru and Bolivia. And it wasn’t pleasant.

Mountain cow

On our first day we asked about short hikes around the hostel area to get used to the altitude. We were told about a trail that leads to a cheese factory in a village in the mountains above. No map and vague instructions. The short hike turned out to be an eight hours steep and painful one – on top of that I got a severe sunburn.

Gusumbinialto village Church 

After you climb the steep and long path from the main road in Chugchilan to the mountains, there is a crossroad a few meters away from a green bench and next to a green waste bin. You have to turn right. The other way goes to a cloud forest. This took us a while to understand because in our hostel they told us about a green house. There is no such thing to be seen around here.

Donkey staked on the hillsides

Then you have to walk for a while until you arrive to the center of the village. And then you’ll go up on a hill. Passing the tiny church, the cheese factory will be on the right side.

Small cheese factory using Swiss technology

 When we finally arrived around noon, the factory was already closed.

We asked around but no one seemed to know the schedule.  If there is one.

Quichua women washing clothes

Thankfully we bought a couple of packed cheese sandwiches at our hostel. And we always carry some KIND bars in every trip.

Hillsides at 12,500 ft

 The way down at first seemed easier than it was. It took us long hours to get back.

Quichua people

When we finally arrived I was feeling under the weather.  A warm soup, hot tea and a good night’s sleep made me feel like new in the next day.

Donkey carrying wood

What to bring: Dress in layers. Long sleeved shirts to protect your skin. Sunscreen.  Take with you plenty of water and some cereal bars or fruits. 

What to pack for the Amazon jungle

So far I had the opportunity to backpack on a shoestring through Europe, Asia, South America, North America and North Africa. After every trip I take mental notes about items I should include or take off my list. I'm an organization freak! So here are some packing tips for an amazon jungle trip. 

View over  deforested Coca

I've done jungle trips before. When it came time to pack for the Napo Wildlife Center I already knew what I was looking for. 

Any sense of fashion and style will go out of the window the second you step off the plane and begin to sweat abundantly. In this type of trips you want to feel comfortable and protected from sunburns and insects.

River otter

• Long Sleeves

You'll need 2 long sleeve dry fit shirts in light colors (pastel tones are the best) but on a looser fitting. This is a very hot and humid place, you'll be always wet and sticky. Loose fitting clothing is comfier.

I noticed that all the guides were wearing Columbia long sleeve shirts. Those are baggy shirts made with a very light and breathable fabric. 

• T'shirts 

I got some dry fit tanks but they weren't appropriate. My skin was too exposed. T'shirts are a better choice. Or at least tanks that cover your chest and shoulders. 

Nocturnal frog

• Pants

In Costa Rica, I was wearing cotton leggings and they weren't cushy. The fabric wasn't breathable, it was wet all the time and I got lots of mosquitoes bites. This time, I bought some roomy ultra light pants. Unfortunately, I couldn't find these in a light color. But they worked fine.

• Shoes

Sneakers are the safest option (some guests were wearing Keen hybrid shoes, they were ok too). The lodge will provide you with Wellington boots for the muddy treks (they were comfortable, I didn't need to use the shoe insoles recommended by some reviewers on Tripadvisor).

• RainJacket

The lodge provides long ponchos. No need to pack one.

David, our eagle-eye, trying to spot wildlife while paddling

• Basics

You'll also need clothing to wear around the lodge. I packed a couple of basics: cotton dress and shorts plus flipflops. Nothing fancy or trendy. Just comfy clothes.

• Acessories

A wide brimmed hat like this one is mandatory. And sunglasses. 

Don't forget to bring a small backpack to carry the essentials for the daily activities. 

Binoculars make a big difference in these nature trips. Otherwise it is really hard to spot wildlife or fully enjoy it. We decided to buy a decent pair of 10x42mm waterproof and fogproof binoculars, still reasonably priced. They performed greatly. 

We packed a flashlight but it was useless. We ended up using the iPhone for that. Way better!

Birding

• Toiletries 

The Sun is very strong in the Equator. Bring a good sunscreen with a high SPF.

I packed a Deet based insect repellent (I tried many natural alternatives but they weren't effective in jungle) but I barely used it during my stay. Napo is almost a mosquito - free zone (it's impressive, I only got a couple of tiny bites). 

Sulfate free shampoo and toothpaste should be in your list. I also bought an all-natural soap bar but rooms had a bio- degradable shower gel dispenser.

• Compression bags

I read many complains about stinky clothes. That's why I bought some compression bags at Marshalls (I like the Swiss Gear ones). But I didn't need them for any other purpose other than saving space - they are very efficient for that. During our stay at Napo it didn't rain and there wasn't that earthy jungle smell.  

Napo Wildlife Center: Lost in the Ecuadorian Amazon

Yasuni National Park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve located in the Amazonian rainforest region in Ecuador.

Anangu lake

While researching about Yasuni, we came across the Napo Wildlife Center (NWC). It's a community-based sustainable project managed by the Kichwa Anangu people and it's focused in preserving the fauna and flora. 

NWC is located in the shore of a beautiful lake, with access to the Napo river but sufficiently away that the busy waters don't affect the quiet way of life at NWC.

It's composed by just 12 cabins facing the lake. 

Early morning at Anangu lake 

We booked everything directly with the Napo staff (no credit card surcharge) but you can also book it through a travel agency. It can be cheaper if you are also booking a cruise to Galapagos or something else.

Cabins 

The whole package is very well organized. Napo's staff member was waiting for us at Quito airport with a smile, our boarding passes and a lunch box for later on.

It's a short flight to Coca, about 25 minutes. There we met the guides and we took a 2 hours ride in a motorized canoe. 

Along the Napo river we saw many oil drilling sites. And high speed boats that cause disruption and serve mainly the oil company workers.

Oil machinery being transported along the river

In 2007 Ecuadoran President, Correa, proposed that his government would refrain from oil exploitation in Yasuni in exchange of getting at least $350 million dollars annually in donations from the international community. The Ecuadoran government named the campaign, Yasuni - ITT Initiative.

Many environmental organizations, countries and also the University of Maryland have committed $100.000 to the initiative.  Turns out, Correa allegedly had been negotiating a $1 billion deal with a Chinese bank to drill for oil in the area when he launched the ITT Iniative.

Night trail 

A Quito based NGO conducted an on-the-ground inspection in a Quichua indigenous village in the Yasuni, along the Napo river and concluded that 5 families out of 20 had experienced poisoning due to dumped oil in the watercourse. All the members of those families became seriously ill.  

Recently, the Supreme Court of Canada, unanimously ruled in favor of the Ecuadoran indigenous people, allowing them to enforce a $9.5 billion verdict, against an oil company that deliberated dumped 18 billion gallons of waste water and 17 million gallons of crude, into the Ecuadorian Amazon back in 2001. 

It caused a massive health crisis and remains one of the worst oil-related environmental crimes in history.

David, the eagle eye, paddling

Oil exploitation affects local communities and the natural ecosystem. 

Projects like Napo empower local people and protect the rainforest.  Communities can preserve their traditions and make money with eco-tourism while they oppose destructive development and oil extraction. 

Kichwa Anangu community is engaged in sustainable practices in order to protect wildlife in their lands. For instances, they don't hunt monkeys anymore. And as a consequence, the number of monkeys increased in the last years.

Our canoe

After the motorized canoe we were divided by groups of 7 to 8 people - we were lucky, we teamed up with the Swift's, a merry family from Manchester - UK. And then we took a small paddle-canoe (no worries, no need to paddle) through the Napo river creeks that connects with the Anangu lake.

A few meters after we changed to the canoe, we saw a red titi monkey. The tour had just started. 

Golden Mantled Tamarind

Our crew, David (the eagle eye) and Pedro (naturalist guide) were simply perfect.

David spotted things that no one could see and Pedro was truly enthusiastic and passionate about showing us everything the jungle could offer. 

Poison dart frog

Typically you wake up early, at 5 or 5.30 am and embark on a journey to see countless animals. Just monkeys alone, we saw 6 different species.

We also did an interesting night walk around the lodge. David spotted several nocturnal creatures during a 30 minutes walk or so. 

Passion butterfly

Don't underestimate the observation tower that sits at the center of the lodge. We saw many animals there while having drinks with the Swift, before the sunset. Namely monkeys, a cayman and dozens of birds. 

Nocturnal frog sleeping

Wildlife is simply stunning at Napo. It's truly once in a lifetime experience. 

Kichwa Anangu ladies dancing

Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wildness

The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wildness (BWCAW) is an unique place located in the northern third of the Superior National Forest in northeastern Minnesota. 

There are more than 1200 miles of canoe routes. And several thousand lakes, dispersed with islands and surrounded by forest.

Canoeing at 6.30 a.m.

It's certainly one of the most beautiful natural places that I ever visited in the U.S. 

The restriction on motor boats make it peaceful and magical. You can canoe for hours, enjoy the wildlife and scenery without any interference. And take a rest in the rocky shores. 

South Farm Lake

Boat deck at Blue Heron

We stayed in a premium location. Our hotel, Blue Heron Bed and Breakfast, was just a few feet away from the BWCAW area. Canoes and kayaks are available at any time. We took advantage of that and we went for early morning canoeing trips. We saw several blue herons, a bald eagle and its nest. Also dozens of gorgeous water lilies  and big fish.

South Farm Lake

Banana and red fruits French Toast 

Dawn and Mark are great hosts. They prepare hearty and delicious breakfasts, served on a communal table where the guests can meet each other and share experiences. The breakfast room overlooks the bird feeding stations, squirrels are also invited.
You should pack a good pair of binoculars (it makes a huge difference), camera, hat, sunscreen, repellent, reusable bottle of water and snacks.

BWCAW is being threatened by a mining project, Twin Metals. You can learn more about this here. Please sign the petition and spread the word #SaveTheBWCA

Red Fruits Pancakes

Squirrel eating black sunflower seeds

Rose's Luxury is Over-hyped

Rose's Luxury was on our list for a while. A few weeks ago, we decided to be brave and stand in line for more than 1h on a sunny Saturday. 

Helena's take: I don't get the hype. 

Desserts are good. Small plates are promising but disappointing in the end. Inconsistency is a big flaw in such a small menu. The food was not mind-blowing. 

Compared with similar places in NYC or Chicago, RL is a 3 stars. The hype and line killed the experience. 

Tips:

- If you are willing to eat right when it opens, you might get away without waiting much since most people in line put their names down for the 2nd rotation around 7 pm. 

- Save some room to dessert. 

- Go in small groups. 

- You should go once for the experience.

Can't miss:

- English pea cake with edible flowers. Very creative and yummy.

Good:

- Vietnamese pate. 

- Pork & Lychee salad.

- Coconut milk ice-cream

Meh:

- Grilled avocado topped with (tons of) cotija cheese. Unbalanced flavors. 

- Grilled pork blade steak. Teriyaki sauce was  terrible. 

- Charred asparagus with pineapple. Not good.

Cons:

- Insane line. 

Menu

Outdoor seating

Line at 4.50 pm

Complimentary bread and butter

Vietnamese pate

Grilled avocado

Pork and Lychee salad

Grilled blade steak

Asparagus salad

Complimentary pistachio ice cream

Dessert menu

Coconut ice cream

Pea cake